Renowned chef Elena Terry will open a new restaurant this summer at the Madison Museum of Contemporary Art (MMoCA).
Terry’s new restaurant, Tall Grass, is currently in the works. Terry, a member of the Ho-Chunk Nation and founder of nonprofit Wild Bearies, a seed-to-table outreach initiative that improves tribal food systems, has previously worked with the Smithsonian, James Beard Foundation, the United Nations, often shared her work through a series of pop-ups and has appeared on shows like “Top Chef,” “Chopped” and “BBQ Brawl.”
The newest chapter in her culinary journey brings Terry’s dream to have a brick-and-mortar space of her own life. The space is currently being built out with Terry’s vision where she is being brought into the design process.
“They’re including me on everything from design to procurement,” Terry said. “They didn’t want to build the space and have me there. They wanted to have me participate in that.”
One of the parts Terry is most excited about is MMoCA recognizing her as an artist and not just her culinary skills. Terry shopped around for around two and a half years with different organizations.
It wasn’t until she had Paul Baker Prindle, MMoCA’s Gabriele Haberland director, that she knew that MMoCA was where she wanted to be.
“I would have a presence in the capital. I would have access to the university as well,” Terry said. “I’m being considered an artist in what I do, which a lot of people look at chefs as service providers. We do provide a service, so to be recognized as an artist, it’s just mindblowing. I can’t even believe it.”
Being recognized for her prowess comes with some weight. Terry feels responsible for being a beacon for the next generation, and again, MMoCA is behind her vision.
Terry hopes to use the restaurant to figure out how she can propel the next generation forward as quickly as possible.
“It can’t be ego-driven and it can’t be me as a movement. It has to be us and that’s the stance I’ve taken with my work as a mentor,” Terry said.
For service at the restaurant, Tall Grass is multi-tiered. It will operate in a more cafe-like setting during the daytime with fresh pastries, smoothies and coffee. Lunch will see salads, sandwiches, soups and specialty drinks. Dinner service, right now at least, is planned to have a set menu, which is yet to be revealed.
Tall Grass also plans to have drinks served all day and catering, which the restaurant will be taking care of for MMoCA’s events.
She does hope to bring in some friends and highlight them. Terry is also playing with the idea of having a curated menu for events happening in Madison, like when “Hamilton” was at the Overture Center, Terry said.
A focus on sourcing food will be a bit on decolonization, but Terry doesn’t want to put a strain on food systems and burden access for Indigenous communities.
“I don’t want to try and cook something that I can’t achieve at home, and even I don’t have the resources to eat a decolonized menu,” Terry said. “I’ve kept the mission of being able to provide for my community first and then go to the greater community.”
Terry worries about how a fully decolonized menu could impact others. An example she used, if she were to order 2,000 pounds of wild rice from the White Earth Tribe in Minnesota, it could impact the cost for the average person or reduce the supply.
Tall Grass is planned to open in the summer, around late June or July, Terry expects. As the design and build are still being worked on, no firm date is planned.
